Solvent-based non-drying lipstick

ABSTRACT

A long wearing, durable, non-smearing type wax based pigmented lipstick product including volatile solvents, non-volatile silicone polymer, oil soluble liquid phase and dry powder phase, is made to have improved moisturizing properties by incorporating a mixture of moisturizers which includes essential fatty acids provided by diisoarachidyl dilinoleate, fatty acid ester of α-tocopherol, a cholesteryl/behenyl/octyldodecyl/lauroyl glutamate complex, and lauryl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid ester.

This application is a continuation-in-part of application Ser. No.08/575,134, filed Dec. 19, 1995, abandoned.

BACKGROUND OF INVENTION

1. Field of Invention

This invention relates to a lipstick composition and product and, moreparticularly, to a long wearing non-drying lipstick.

2. Problems to be Solved and Prior Art

There has been a recent trend in the cosmetic field to provide longlasting, longer wear products. In the case of lipsticks, for example,long lasting requires, among other characteristics, resistance totransfer from the lips to other surfaces such as glassware, silverware,clothing, etc. It is also important, especially in light of the longperiods of time these products remain on the lips or skin, particularlyfor lipstick products, that the product remains moist and/or retainsmoisture. One attempt at such a cosmetic product having long wearcharacteristics is described in published European Patent Application0602905A2 (published Jun. 22, 1994) and in corresponding U.S. Pat. No.5,505,937. A protective lipstick product is disclosed, for example, inU.S. Pat. No. 5,093,111. In addition to waxes, oils and colorants, thelipstick composition of this patent includes, in specified proportions,cetearyl isononanoate, a sesquistearate, and isopropyl hydroxystearate.Use of fatty acid esters of α-tocopherol+(Vitamin E) as a moisturizer incosmetic compositions is disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,760,095. Alipstick formulation is shown in Example 2 of this patent.

In U.S. Pat. No. 5,288,482, it is taught that the durability of lipcareproducts may be increased by including an alkylmethyl polysiloxane. Seealso, e.g., U.S. Pat. No. 4,980,167 for a lipstick containing a siliconerubber and a silicone oil.

While the above and other patented as well as commercially availablelipstick products are known which provide varying degrees ofmoisturization and/or long wear properties, still further improvementsare desired, particularly, with regard to non-drying/moisturizingproperties.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

It has now been discovered that the above and other drawbacks of knownlipcare products may be eliminated by including a blend of moisturizingand moisture retaining agents with other conventional lipcare productingredients.

Accordingly, the present invention provides in a lipcare composition ofthe wax based non-smearing type and containing a volatile solvent andnon-volatile silicone polymers, a moisturizing effective amount of amixture of (i) diisoarachidyl dilinoleate; (ii) C₁₄ to C₂₂ fatty acidester of alpha-tocopherol; (iii) moisture retaining emulsion stabilizingemollient, and (iv) lipophile moisturizer having delayed and remanenteffect.

The preferred lipcare product may be provided in stick form, however,creams, pastes, gels, balms, lotions, and the like are also within thescope of the invention. Furthermore, the preferred lipstick compositionsand products are colored lipstick cosmetic products containingcosmetically acceptable colorant, particularly solid pigments anddyestuffs.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF INVENTION AND PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

The formulations disclosed herein contain cosmetically acceptableingredients that are suitable for application to the mouth and oralcavity and which, when applied to the lips, provides long wearcharacteristics while moisturizing and conditioning the skin (lips).

Moisturizing Mixture

The enhancement of the moisturizing and conditioning benefits achievedby the present invention result from the incorporation of a mixture ofmoisturizers which are more effective and more active then moisturizermixtures previously used in lipcare products. Moreover, this moisturizermixture may be incorporated into the formulation in a significantlygreater percentage of the formulation than was practical with priorknown lipcare products.

According to the invention the moisturizer mixture includes fouressential moisturizing agents: (i) diisoarachidyl dilinoleate, (ii) C₁₄to C₂₂ fatty acid ester of alpha-tocopherol, (iii) moisture retainingemulsion stabilizing emollient; and (iv) lipophile moisturizer withdelayed and remanent effect.

Each of these moisturizing ingredients will now be explained in greaterdetail below.

Diisoarachidyl dilinoleate is an essential moisturizing agent for thelipcare products of this invention. It is incorporated in amounts ofusually from about 1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 4 to15% by weight and, especially preferably, from about 10 to 13% byweight, based on the total formulation. Diisoarachidyl dilinoleate isavailable under the tradename LIQUIWAX DIEFA, from Brooks Industries,Inc., South Plainfield, N.J. As described in the technical literaturefor this product, Liquiwax Diefa is a liquid wax emollient which willsoften skin without the greasiness and oiliness associated withconventional oils and esters. Liquiwax Diefa contains essential fattyacids, specifically omega-6-linoleic acid. The essential fatty acid(EFA) component helps normalize the epidermal lipid structure andpromote the formation of normal healthy looking skin. Liquiwax Diefa isfurther described as an odorless and tasteless, clear light-coloredliquid which is spreadable and has good cushion on the skin. It isrecommended as a vehicle for the delivery of active topical ingredients.

In the present invention, the diisoarachidyl dilinoleate moisturizingingredient may also function as an oil soluble liquid component asdiscussed in further detail below.

The preferred fatty acid ester of alpha-tocopherol is tocopheryllinoleate. However, any of the alpha-tocopherol esters disclosed in U.S.Pat. No. 4,760,095, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein byreference thereto, may be used in this invention.

The amount of the alpha-tocopherol ester moisturizing ingredient mayrange from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5to about 5% by weight; based on the total formulation. A more preferredrange is from about 0.6 to about 2% by weight of the total formula.

The third essential moisturizing ingredient is the moisture retainingemulsion stabilizing emollient. A particular preferred emollient ischolesteryl/behenyl/octyldodecyl/lauroyl glutamate complex, availableunder the tradename Eldew CL-301, a product of Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc.,Teaneck, N.J.

This glutamate complex is a petroleum-like wax at room temperature andmelts rapidly at human body temperature. It is derived from L-glutamicacid, lauric acid and three alcohols (cholesterol, 2-octyldodecanol andbehenol) and may be characterized by the formula

where R and R¹ represent, individually, cholesteryl, 2-octyldodecyl,behenyl. The ratios of the three alcohols may be varied widely but,generally, such ratios would be nearly equimolar, such as, for example,from 10 to 60 mole % for each of the alcohols, although higher or lowerratios could be used according to need. Moreover, other similar alcoholsmay be used in place of some or all of one or more of cholesterol,2-octyldodecanol, and behenol, so long as its water absorbing andretaining capacity is not significantly impaired.

In addition to its high water holding capacity, Eldew CL-301 is statedto have high moisture permeability (e.g. to perspiration) to allowexcess moisture to evaporate freely from the skin surface. Eldew CL-301also is characterized by its ability to improve dispersion of pigmentsin make-up and other color cosmetics.

While the glutamic acid complex is the preferred moisture retainingemulsion stabilizing emollient other suitable materials may be used inplace of or in addition to the glutamic acid complex, such as, forexample, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) glyceryl oleate,dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, cetearylglucoside, Polyolprepolymer-2,Petrolatum, caprylic/capric/stearic triglyceride, Shea Butter,cholesterol, lecithin, phospholipids, Illipe Butter, and the like.

The moisturizing additive (iii) is incorporated in an amount of fromabout 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 5%by weight, and especially preferably from about 0.6 to about 2% byweight based on the total weight of the composition.

Moisturizing additive (iv) is included in the moisturizing mixturebecause of its long lasting moisturizing capacity, namely, its delayedand remanent effect. That is, the moisturizing additive (iv) exerts itseffects over a number of hours, e.g. up to about 24 hours, rather thanas an instant reaction.

Particularly preferred as the remanent moisturizer is the lauric esterof pyrrolidone carboxylic acid,

which is known as lauryl PCA and is available under the trademarkLaurydone® from Usines Chimiques D'Ivry-LA-Bataille (UCIB).

Other lipophilic moisturizers which may be used in place of or inaddition to Lauryl PCA include, for example, Lauryl Methyl PCA,phytoglycolipids, cholesterol, glycosphingolipids, palmitoyl hydrolyzedmilk protein, Illipe Butter, and the like.

The amount of the lipophilic moisturizer (iv) in the subject lipcareproducts will usually be from about 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferablyfrom about 0.5 to 6% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to 4% byweight, based on the total composition.

The mixture of the moisturizing ingredients will be incorporated intothe lipcare product in an amount of from about 2 to 30%, preferably fromabout 6 to 25%, and especially preferably from about 10 to 20% by weightof the composition.

Moreover, within the general and preferred amounts of the individualmoisturizers, these four ingredients are typically present at a mixingweight ratio of (i):(ii):(iii):(iv) in the range of from about10:0.1-4:0.1-4:0.1-4, more preferably from about 10:0.5-2:0.5-2:0.5-3.Although, as evident from the above, certain moisturizing ingredientsmay be able to fulfill the functions of both (iii) and (iv), it ispreferred that if other than the preferred glutamate complex for (iii)and tauryl PCA for (iv) are used, different moisturizes be selected forthe (iii) and (iv) components.

Volatile Solvent

The volatile solvent contributes to the wear characteristics of thelipcare composition. Preferably, the composition includes a mixture oftwo or more volatile solvents, one each of volatile silicone solventsand volatile hydrocarbon solvents.

A preferred example of volatile silicone solvent is cyclomethicone.Other examples include the cyclic silicone fluids available from, forexample, Dow Corning Co. and General Electric Co., under such tradenamesas DC 200 Fluid, SF 1204, SF 1202 and SF 1173. Generally, theviscosities of the volatile silicone solvent is in the range of fromabout 0.5 and up to about 20 centistokes at 25° C., preferably up toabout 10 centistokes at 25° C. Representative examples of volatile orlow-viscosity silicone liquids include both the cyclic and linearsilicones such as disclosed, for example, in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,505,937,5,118,507, 4,578,206, and 4,855,129, the disclosures of which are eachincorporated herein by reference thereto.

Examples of the volatile hydrocarbon solvent include isododecane andC8-20 isoparaffins, preferably C₈-C₁₆ isoparaffins especially C8-12isoparaffins. Normal alkanes may also be used, alone, or in admixturewith, the isoparaffins (isoalkanes). Isododecane is especiallypreferred.

Weight ratios of the volatile silicone/volatile hydrocarbon in the rangeof from about 10:1 to 1:10 are generally suitable. A more preferredratio is from about 6:1 to 1:2. Furthermore, total amounts of thevolatile solvents may range from about 1 to 68% of the composition.However, a more preferred range is from about 33 to 59%, especially fromabout 40 to 50% by weight of the total lipcare composition.

Non-Volatile Silicone Polymer

The non-volatile silicone polymer component also contributes to the wearproperties of the lipcare formulations. The silicone polymers arecharacteristically non-volatile, particularly in comparison to theabove-described volatile silicone component. The silicone polymers areoften solid resinous or gummy materials but, generally, are relativelyhigh molecular weight non-volatile solid, semisolid or waxy, or liquidmaterials.

One class of useful silicone polymers are silicone ester waxes, such asthose disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,505,937, 5,334,737 and 4,725,658,the disclosures of which are incorporated herein in their entireties byreference thereto. Specific examples of these silicone ester waxesinclude diisostearyl trimethylolpropane siloxy silicate and lauryltrimethylolpropane siloxy silicate.

Another class of non-volatile silicone polymer useful in the lipstickcosmetic product of this invention includes polyalkyl siloxanes whereinthe alkyl groups have from 1 to about 22 or more carbon atoms, typicallywith a viscosity in the range of from about 10 and up to about10,000,000 centistokes (Cs), preferably in the range of from about 10 to100,000 Cs, at 25° C. These materials may be provided in variousphysical forms, such as, high viscosity liquids, wax-like solids andliquids, gum-like, resinous, etc. Preferably, the polyalkylsiloxane is apolysiloxane polyalkylene copolymer, e.g., an alkylmethylsilicone orpolysiloxane represented by the formula

where x has a value, on average, of 1-300, y has a value, on average, of1-50, and z has a value, on average, of 5-50. Preferably, x has value inthe range of 3-40; y has a range of 2-190; and z has a range of 5-30,especially 8-20. Such alkylmethylsilicone copolymers are described in,for example, U.S. Pat. No. 5,288,482 and patents cited therein, thedisclosures of which are incorporated herein in their entirety byreference thereto. The alkylmethylsilicone copolymers are alsocommercially available from various sources, such as Dow Chemical Co.and Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. of Hopewell, Va. under the Abil®-Waxtradename; e.g., Abil-Wax 9800 is stearyl dimethicone and Abil-Wax 9801is cetyl dimethicone, which are, respectively, available in waxy andliquid forms at about room temperature (e.g., 25° C. or lower).

Amounts of the silicone polymer are generally in the range of from about0.5 to 16% by weight, preferably from about 1 to 12% by weight, andespecially preferably 1.5 to 8% by weight, based on the totalcomposition.

Wax

The lipcare products of this invention, especially when in stick form,will typically include one or more waxes, including natural waxes andsynthetic wax-like materials. Suitable waxes have a melting point in therange of from about 32° to 120° C., more preferably 40° to 110° C. Anyof the waxes normally used in cosmetic and lipcare products may be usedin this invention.

Examples of suitable waxes include paraffin, ozokerite, cerein wax,microcrystalline wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax,cetyldimethicone, and low molecular weight polyolefin waxes, such aethylene/propylene copolymers, polyethylene, etc. Mixtures of two ormore of natural and synthetic waxes will generally and preferably beused to achieve desired characteristics, such as body, spreadability,long-wear, and the like.

The wax component will normally be present in an amount within the rangeof from about 5 to 35%, preferably from about 8 to 30%, and morepreferably from about 12 to 20%, by weight, based on the totalcomposition.

Oil Phase

Oily (oil soluble) liquids are included in the subject lipcare productsto provide desirable feel, spreadability, gloss and other desirablecharacteristics. Preferably, a mixture of low viscosity (generally fromabout 5 or 10 centipoises (cps) at 25° C., and up to about 100 cps,preferably up to about 50 cps, at 25° C.) and high viscosity (at leastabout 100 cps, preferably at least about 150 cps (at 25° C.) and up toabout 10,000, preferably up to about 1,000 cps (at 25° C.)). Typically,the oil soluble liquids are esters that are carboxylic or alcoholic innature. Representative of a low viscosity oil soluble liquid having aviscosity in the range of 5 to 15 cps at 25° C. is isononylisononanoate. Other suitable low viscosity oils include, for example,octyl palmitate, diioctylmaleate, octyldedecanol, PEG-4 diheptanoate,isononylnonoate, coco-dicaprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate,cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetyl acetate,acetylated lanolin alcohol, and the like.

As examples of high viscosity oil soluble liquids mention may be madeof, for example, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)/hexadecene andtrioctyldodecyl citrate, with viscosities in the range of 100 to 1,000cps at 25° C. Other triesters of citric acid, such as disclosed in U.S.Pat. No. 5,244,665, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein byreference thereto, may be used in place of some or all oftrioctyldodecyl citrate. Diisoarachidyl dilinoleate, one of theessential moisturizing ingredients of this invention, also functions asa high viscosity oily liquid (100-1,000 cps at 25° C.) and, therefore,the amount of this moisturizing ingredient should also be included inthe amount of the oil phase components.

Other examples of high viscosity oils useful in the present inventioninclude lanolin oil, sesame seed oil, glyceryl trioctanoate, tridecyltrimellitate, castor oil, gaprylic/capric triglyceride, corn oil,mineral oil, hydrogenated polyisobutene, and polybutene. See also EPO602 902A2 for other suitable low and high viscosity oils.

The ratio of low viscosity to high viscosity oils in the oil phase ispreferably in the range of from 1:10 to 20:1, more preferably 1:8 to16:1, especially preferably 1:2 to 10:1. More particularly, the ratio oflow and high viscosity oils should be selected to provide the oil phasewith a viscosity in the range of from about 750 to 950 cps at 25° C. Thetotal amount of the oil phase will generally fall within the range of 2to 35% by weight, preferably 5 to 30% by weight and especiallypreferably from about 10 to 20% by weight of oil phase based on thetotal composition.

Powder Phase

In order to provide a colored product or a product having adequatetexture and coverage of the lips the formulation of this invention willinclude a dry powder phase distributed throughout the product as istypical in most lipcare, especially lipstick, products.

Suitable powders may be pigmented, pearlized, or non-pigmented andmixtures of these types may be used. Examples of non-pigmented powdersinclude bismuth oxychloride, titanated mica, titanium dioxide, mica andacrylate copolymers. The use of acrylate copolymer powder isadvantageous because of its good binding properties for otheringredients in the composition. As examples of pigmented powders mentionmay be made of organic and inorganic pigments, generally referred to aslakes or oxides of metallic salts of certified color additives, such as,for example, D & C and F, D & C blues, reds, yellows, browns andoranges. Other examples of non-pigmented powders include boron nitride,kaolin, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, polymethylmethacrylate beads,silica, nylon, zinc stearate, talc and amino acids.

The amount of powder phase will be selected to provide the desiredtexture, binding, coverage and coloration to the formula but, generally,will be within a range of from about 2 to 15% by weight, preferably 5 to15% by weight, based on the total composition. Within these totalamounts it is generally preferred that the amount of pigmented powderfalls within the range of from about 1 to 14%, preferably about 3 to 13%and the amount of non-pigmented powder falls within the range of fromabout 1 to 5%, preferably from about 1 to 4%, based on the totalcomposition.

Other Ingredients

Any of the other aesthetic or functional ingredients normally used inlipcare products may also be included in the compositions of thisinvention. Examples of such additional ingredients include, for example,preservatives, antioxidants, and the like. The amounts of such otheradditives may be freely chosen so long as the amounts can achieve thedesired function without impairing the overall properties andmoisturizing characteristics of the inventive compositions. Examples ofpreservatives and antioxidants useful in this invention include theparabens, such as isopropylparaben, isobutylparaben, butylparaben,propylparaben and methylparaben; tocopherol, TBHQ, BHA and BHT. Usually,antioxidants and preservatives may be incorporated in amounts generallywithin the range of 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 0.8% byweight of the total composition.

Formulation

Generally, any of the techniques well known in the art may be used tomix the various essential and non-essential ingredients presented in theformulations of this invention.

For example, the cosmetically acceptable ingredients of the formulationmay be combined by first grinding a portion of the pigmented andnon-pigmented dry powder with a portion of the oil soluble liquids.Next, the wax(es), remainder of the oil soluble liquids and non-volatilesilicone polymer are added together under heat and mixed. The remainderof the dry powder is added and mixed followed by addition of thevolatile solvents. The moisturizers may be added last. After continuedmixing of the total ingredients until homogeneous, the resulting mixtureis poured into molds and allowed to cool.

More particularly, the pigmented dry powder and a portion of the oilsoluble liquids are passed through a triple roll mill. The waxes,silicone polymer and remainder of oil soluble liquids are heated atabout 125° C. using an appropriate size kettle equipped with a stirrer.The remainder of the dry powders are added to the molten mixture whilecontinuing stirring. The volatile solvents are then added to the kettlemixture for further mixing and finally, after cooling the mixture, themoisturizers are added while mixing is continued until the ingredientsare homogeneously distributed. The homogeneous mixture may betransferred to molds and cooled to form the desired shaped products.

The invention will now be described by the following illustrative butnon-limitative examples.

EXAMPLE 1

Using the procedure described above the following lipstick product isprepared:

Ingredient Amount (wt %) Cyclomethicone 30.25 Synthetic Wax 12.50Isododecane 12.00 Diisoarachidyl Dilinolease¹ 10.21 Stearyl Dimethicone6.40 Diisostearyl trimethylolpropane 5.00 siloxy silicate Paraffin Wax4.51 Isomeryl isononanoate 2.50 Ozokerite Wax 2.00 Trioctyldodecylcitrate 1.00 Alpha-tocopherol linoleate 1.00Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl/ 1.00 Lauroyl Gluatmate² Lauryl PCA³2.00 PVP Hexadecene Copolymer 0.50 Acrylate Copolymer 0.50 PigmentedPowder 7.80 Non-pigmented Powder 0.23 Preservatives⁴ 0.60 ¹as LiquiwaxDiefa ²as Eldew CL-301 ³as Laurydone ® ⁴Isopropyl paraben,isobutylparaben, n-butylparaben

EXAMPLE 2 Ingredient Amount (wt %) Cyclomethicone 34.50 Isododecane10.00 Ozokerite 2.00 Paraffin 4.51 Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer 10.00Stearyl Dimethicone 1.50 Isononyl isononanoate 1.00 Trioctyldodecylcitrate 1.00 Diisoarachidyl dilinoleate¹ 10.34 PVP Hexadecene 0.50Diisostearyl Trimethylolpropane 4.75 Siloxy Silicate Preservatives⁴ 0.40α-Tocopherol 0.10 Lauryl PCA² 2.00 α-Tocopherol linoleate 1.00Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl/ 1.00 Lauryl Glutamate³ Acrylatecopolymer 0.50 Red 7 Calcium Lake 2.00 Red 6 Barium Lake 8.00 Yellow 5Aluminum Lake 1.00 Titanium dioxide 0.50 Titanium dioxide/mica 0.70Titanium dioxide/mica/iron oxide 0.70 Bismuth chloride 2.00 ¹as LiquiwaxDiefa ²as Eldew CL-301 ³as Laurydone ® Isopropyl paraben,isobutylparaben, n-butylparaben

Following the procedures generally outlined above this formulation isprepared by grinding the pigmented portion (Red 7, Red 6 and Yellow 5)of the dry powder ingredients with the oil soluble liquids(isononylisononanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, diisoarachidyldilinoleate, PVP/hexadecene); the silicone resin diisostearyltrimethylolpropane siloxy silicate); and preservatives (isopropylparaben, isobutyl paraben, n-butyl paraben, α-tocopherol). tocopherol).The waxes (ozokerite, paraffin, ethylene/propylene copolymer, stearyldimethicone) are added with heating. After the waxes are melted and theingredients well mixed, the remainder of the dry powder (titaniumdioxide-mica-iron oxide; bismuthoxychloride, acrylate copolymer) areadded. The volatile solvents (cyclomethicone, isododecane) are addednext, and while the mixture is further stirred and slightly cooled, theremainder of the moisturizing ingredients (α-tocopherol linoleate,glutamate complex, lauryl PCA) are added with stirring. After themixture becomes homogeneous it is poured into lipstick molds and left tocool. The tops are scraped and left to chill before removing from themold.

Lipstick samples prepared according to Example 2 were compared to acommercial non-transfer type lipstick in a blind comparison panel testin which the subjects were regular lipstick users. The panelists wereasked to compare the moisturizing, look, wear, durability and feelcharacteristics of both products (neither of which was identified to thepanelists). By a ratio of more than 3 to 1 (with about one-halfexpressing no preference) the panelists overall favored the lipstick ofExample 2 over the commercial product at 3 hours after application.After 4 hours, 6 hours and 8 hours both products were comparable.

EXAMPLE 3

Following procedures as generally described above, lipstick productswith the following compositions are prepared:

Amount (wt. %) Ingredient A B C Cyclomethicone 34.50 34.50 34.50Isododecane 10.00 10.00 10.00 PVP Hexadecene Copolymer 0.50 0.51 0.50Stearyl Dimethicone 4.25 1.53 1.50 Ethyl Propylene Copolymer 11.00 12.8911.00 Ozokerite 3.00 2.58 3.00 Paraffin Wax 4.51 5.81 4.51 IsononylIsononanoate 1.00 1.00 1.00 Triocryldodecyl Citrate 1.00 1.00 1.00Preservative 0.40 0.40 0.40 Titanium Dioxide 2.00 2.00 2.00 Pigments¹9.17 9.17 9.17 Acrylates Copolymer 0.50 0.50 0.50 DiisoarachidylDilinoleate 9.50 9.50 9.50 Duochrome YR 1.94 1.94 1.94 Biron ESQ 1.451.45 1.45 Tocopheryl Linoleate 1.00 1.00 1.00 Cholesteryl/Behenyl/ 1.001.00 1.00 octyldodecyl/Lauroyl Glutamate Lauryl PCA 2.00 2.00 2.00Diisoarachidyl Dilinoleate 1.49 1.43 4.24 Tocopherol 0.10 0.10 0.10¹Mixture of Red 6, Red 7, Red Oxide, Yellow Oxide, Blue 1, Yellow 5,Yellow 6.

The above formulation “A” was subjected to a panel test to test thetransfer resistance of formulation “A” and to compare transferresistance to the user's “regular lipstick.” Two tests were carried outby a panel of regular lipstick users. In both tests each panelistapplied the lipstick of formulation “A” which was allowed to set forthirty minutes. In the first test each of 50 panelists lightly dabbedher lips with a supplied white cloth. When asked if an acceptable amountof lipstick remained on her lips 49 (98%) of the panelists answered“yes.” In response to the question of whether an insignificant or asignificant amount of lipstick “came off” on the cloth 47 (94%) repliedthat an insignificant amount came off. Finally each panelist was askedif the amount which came off on the cloth was “less than,” “equal to” or“greater than” the amount that comes off with her regular lipstick. 46(92%) said the amount was less than the amount that comes off withregular lipstick while 2 each replied that an “equal amount” or “greateramount” came off than comes off with regular lipstick. It is noted thatof the 50 panelists approximately 15 different products fromapproximately ten different manufacturers were listed as the regularlyused lipstick.

In the second panel test with 46 of the 50 subjects from the first paneltest, each panelist again applied formulation “A” and allowed thelipstick to set for 30 minutes. Each panelist then drank water from aglass or cup. After drinking, the subjects evaluated the products for(1) whether an “acceptable” amount of lipstick remained on the lipsafter drinking (100% said “yes”); (2) whether the amount that “came off”on the glass or cup was significant (98% (45) said the amount was“insignificant”); and (3) whether the amount that “came off” was a)“less than”, b) “greater than” or c) “equal to” the amount that comesoff with her regular lipstick (Replies: 96% (44) “less than”; 4% (2)“equal to” and 0% “greater than”).

This Example demonstrates that a lipstick formulation without a silylester wax but containing only conventional lipstick waxes, i.e., stearyldimethicone, synthetic wax (ethylene/propylene copolymer), ozokeritewax, and paraffin wax, provides acceptable long wear and transferresistant properties and, in addition, provides excellentmoisturization.

What is claimed is:
 1. In a wax based non-smearing solid pigmentcontaining colored lipstick cosmetic product containing volatile solventand non-volatile silicone polymer, the improvement comprising amoisturizer mixture comprising moisturizing effective amounts of (i)diisoarachidyl dilinoleate; (ii) C₁₄ to C₂₂ fatty acid ester ofalpha-tocopherol; (iii) moisture retaining emulsion stabilizingemollient selected from the group consisting ofcholesteryl/behenyl/octyldodecyl/lauroyl glutamate complex, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, glyceryl oleate, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline,cetearylglucoside, polyprepolymer-2, petrolatum, caprylic/capric/stearictriglyceride, Shea butter, cholesterol, lecithin, phospholipids, andIllipe butter; and (iv) lipophile moisturizer having delayed andremanent effect selected from the group consisting of lauryl pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid ester, lauryl methyl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid ester,phytoglycolipids, cholesterol, glycosphingo-lipids, palmitoyl hydrolyzedmilk protein, and Illipe Butter.
 2. The lipstick cosmetic product ofclaim 1 wherein the moisturizer mixture comprises, based on the totalproduct, on a weight basis, (i) from about 1 to 20% diisoarachidyldilinoleate, (ii) from about 0.1 to 10% C₁₄ to C₂₂ fatty acid ester ofalpha-tocopherol, (iii) from about 0.1 to 10% of said emollient and (iv)from about 0.1 to 10% by weight of said lipophile moisturizer.
 3. Thelipstick cosmetic product of claim 1 wherein (ii) the fatty acid esterof alpha-tocopherol comprises vitamin E linoleate.
 4. The lipstickcosmetic product of claim 1 wherein (iii) comprises a glutamic acidcomplex of the formula

wherein R and R¹, independently represent a mixture of cholesteryl,2-octyldodecyl and behenyl.
 5. The lipstick cosmetic product of claim 1wherein the moisturizer component (iv) comprises lauryl pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid ester.
 6. The lipstick cosmetic product of claim 1comprising from about 2 to 50% by weight of volatile silicone solvents,from about 10 to 45% by weight of cosmetic wax, from about 6 to 20% ofvolatile hydrocarbon solvent, from about 0.5 to 16% by weight ofnon-volatile silicone polymer, from about 4 to 40% by weight powder andpigments, and from about 5 to 30% by weight of moisturizer mixture. 7.The lipstick cosmetic product of claim 1 comprising from about 25 to 42%by weight of volatile silicone solvent; from about 6 to 22% by weightvolatile hydrocarbon solvent; wherein the total amount of volatilesilicone solvent and volatile hydrocarbon solvent is from about 33 to byweight; from about 8 to 30% by weight cosmetically acceptable wax; fromabout 1 to 12% by weight non-volatile silicone polymer, from about 5 to15% by weight dry powder comprising pigment and non-pigment powders; andfrom about 6 to 25% by weight of the moisturizer mixture.
 8. Thelipstick product of claim 1 comprising in approximate amounts by weight:cyclomethicone 30-35% isododecane  8-14% synthetic wax 10-20% mixture oflow viscosity and high  8-16% viscosity oil soluble liquids non-volatilesilicone polymer 1.5-8%   preservatives 0.1-1%   dry powder comprising 5-15% pigmented and non-pigmented solids moisturizing mixture 11-16%

wherein the moisturizing mixture comprises, in percent by weight, basedon the total weight of product, diisoarachidyl dilinoleate  9-13%α-tocopherol linoleate 0.8-1.2% cholesteryl/behenyl/octyldodecyl/0.8-1.2% lauroyl glutamate Lauryl PCA 0.5-4%  

and wherein the amount of diisoarachidyl dilinoleate is included in theamount of the mixture of low viscosity and high viscosity oil solubleliquids.
 9. The lipstick cosmetic product of claim 1 wherein themoisture retaining emollient (iii) is different than the lipophilemoisturizer (iv).
 10. The lipstick cosmetic product of claim 1 whereinthe mixing weight ratio of the moisturizer mixture (i):(ii):(iii):(iv)is 10:0.1-4:0.1-4:0.1-4.
 11. The lipstick cosmetic product of claim 1wherein the mixing weight ratio of the moisturizer mixture(i):(ii):(iii):(iv) is 10:0.5-2:0.5-2:0.5-3.
 12. A cosmetic compositioncomprising: a) a volatile solvent having a viscosity of from 0.5 to 10centistokes at 25° C.; b) a triester of citric acid; c) an oil solubleliquid other than a triester of citric acid; d) an ethylene wax having amelting point of 32-120° C.; and e) a powder, wherein said cosmeticcomposition is a lipstick.
 13. The cosmetic composition as claimed inclaim 12, comprising 1-68% by weight of said volatile solvent, whereinsaid volatile solvent is a linear or cyclic silicone, a normal orbranched alkane, or a mixture thereof.
 14. The cosmetic composition asclaimed in claim 12, comprising 2-35% by weight of said triester ofcitric acid and said oil soluble liquid.
 15. The cosmetic composition asclaimed in claim 12, wherein said oil soluble liquid is selected fromthe group consisting of PEG- 4 diheptanoate, octyl palmitate,octyldodecanol, oleyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, castor oil, glyceryltrioctanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and corn oil.
 16. Thecosmetic composition as claimed in claim 12, wherein said ethylene waxis present in an amount of 5-35% by weight and is selected from thegroup consisting of ethylene/propylene copolymers and polyethylene. 17.The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 12, wherein said powder isselected from the group consisting of silica, boron nitride, kaolin,aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, talc, titanium dioxide and mica. 18.The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 12, comprising 1-68% byweight volatile solvent selected from linear and cyclic silicones,normal and branched alkanes, and mixtures thereof, 2-35 % by weight ofsaid triester of citric acid and oil soluble liquid, said oil solubleliquid being selected from the group consisting of PEG- 4 diheptanoate,octyl palmitate, octyldodecanol, oleyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, castoroil, glyceryl trioctanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and corn oil,and 5-35 % by weight ethylene wax selected from the group consisting ofethylene/propylene copolymers and polyethylene, and wherein said powderis selected from the group consisting of silica, boron nitride, kaolin,aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, talc, titanium dioxide and mica. 19.The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 12, wherein said triesterof citric acid is trioctyldodecyl citrate.
 20. A cosmetic compositioncomprising: a) a volatile solvent having a viscosity of from 0.5 to 10centistokes at 25° C.; b) a triester of citric acid; c) an oil solubleliquid other than a triester of citric acid; d) an ethylene wax having amelting point of 32-120° C.; and e) a powder, wherein said cosmeticcomposition is a lipcare composition.
 21. The cosmetic composition asclaimed in claim 20, comprising 1-68% by weight of said volatilesolvent, wherein said volatile solvent is a linear or cyclic silicone, anormal or branched alkane, or a mixture thereof.
 22. The cosmeticcomposition as claimed in claim 20, comprising 2-35% by weight of saidtriester of citric acid and said oil soluble liquid.
 23. The cosmeticcomposition as claimed in claim 20, wherein said oil soluble liquid isselected from the group consisting of PEG- 4 diheptanoate, octylpalmitate, octyldodecanol, oleyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, castor oil,glyceryl trioctanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and corn oil. 24.The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 20, wherein said ethylenewax is present in an amount of 5-35% by weight and is selected from thegroup consisting of ethylene/propylene copolymers and polyethylene. 25.The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 20, wherein said powder isselected from the group consisting of silica, boron nitride, kaolin,aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, talc, titanium dioxide and mica. 26.The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 20, comprising 1-68% byweight volatile solvent selected from linear and cyclic silicones,normal and branched alkanes, and mixtures thereof, 2-35 % by weight ofsaid triester of citric acid and oil soluble liquid, said oil solubleliquid being selected from the group consisting of PEG- 4 diheptanoate,octyl palmitate, octyldodecanol, oleyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, castoroil, glyceryl trioctanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and corn oil,and 5-35 % by weight ethylene wax selected from the group consisting ofethylene/propylene copolymers and polyethylene, and wherein said powderis selected from the group consisting of silica, boron nitride, kaolin,aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, talc, titanium dioxide and mica. 27.The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 20, wherein said triesterof citric acid is trioctyldodecyl citrate.